I spent most of my first couple of days back in Bombay just taking in the smell in part-revolt and part-amusement, but mostly a state of vivid, happy intoxication. I came home one night, after 45 minutes of such vivid Bombay-smell intoxication on a local train, and started reading Shantaram (finally).
On Page 2, as if he was reading my mind and putting in words what I was struggling to, Roberts describes the Bombay smell.
"...it's the sweet, sweating smell of hope, which is the opposite of hate; and it's the sour, stifled smell of greed, which is the opposite of love. It's the smell of gods, demons, empires, and civilisations in resurrection and decay. It's the blue skin-smell of the sea, no matter where you are in the Island City, and the blood-metal smell of machines. It smells of the stir and sleep and waste of sixty million animals, more than half of them humans and rats. It smells of heartbreak, and the struggle to live, and of the crucial failures and loves that produce our courage. It smells of ten thousand restaurants, five thousand temples, shrines, churches, and mosques, and of a hundred bazaars devoted exclusively to perfumes, spices, incense and freshly cut flowers. Karla once called in the the worst good smell in the world, and she was right, of course..."
This city endears itself to me, yet again. So does Roberts' writing – it is simply beautiful. Just a few chapters in, but I think I am going to fall in love with Shantaram.
:: naazita ::
Wednesday, May 10, 2006 at 07:37
Smells
Friday, May 05, 2006 at 19:25
April Shots
Ok, in the big bad city now.
But before I start on Bombay tales, a quick re-run of some good times from April, my month of R & R, in two cities I can call home: Hong Kong and Chennai.
My favourite city in the world: Hong Kong. This trip cememnted my love for this place... I think I get high just on the way it smells. I could walk around HK forever and eat street food all day and die happy...and I still take really crappy skyline shots...
A day on a Junk Boat, my favourite thing to do in Hong Kong (right along with tucking into a Dim Sum meal). The tandoori tan was much needed, after my year in the mountains.
A 10 hour drive around almost *every* bit of Hong Kong – all of it – the island, kowloon, the new territories, even Lantau island – in this sweet little machine. (I'm not the kind that drools at cars, but I have to admit, this is a neat convertible)
Spending time with people I love... my brother, who dropped by from Tokyo... Paris and Paulie... among others...
Spending time with parents. Breakfast at home. World-famous daddy-made omelettes and spreads like this.
Cruising around Mylapore with the all-knowing wishfulthinker, who I almost fell in love with after his brilliant tour of Mylapore. Malli poo & Idlis at a hole-in-the-wall: happiness is cheaper than you think.
If I had to come up with 5 reasons as to why Madras rocks, this would make the list - morning walks at the Theosophical Society, right up to the beach. Hanging out with my parents' cool friends & getting free idli-vadaa breakfast being just some of the fringe benefits.
Instead of just pigging out Woodlands thaalis all the time, I decided to try some different stuff. Like this brilliant satvic/ayurvedic meal at Sanjeevanam
. I could do that. Right about now.
Hanging out with old friends... Rat (lau you!!!), Ashcool, Pros, Jim, Phi, Snoop, Prax, etc...
Ok, that'll do for reminiscing.
But before I start on Bombay tales, a quick re-run of some good times from April, my month of R & R, in two cities I can call home: Hong Kong and Chennai.
My favourite city in the world: Hong Kong. This trip cememnted my love for this place... I think I get high just on the way it smells. I could walk around HK forever and eat street food all day and die happy...and I still take really crappy skyline shots...
A day on a Junk Boat, my favourite thing to do in Hong Kong (right along with tucking into a Dim Sum meal). The tandoori tan was much needed, after my year in the mountains.
A 10 hour drive around almost *every* bit of Hong Kong – all of it – the island, kowloon, the new territories, even Lantau island – in this sweet little machine. (I'm not the kind that drools at cars, but I have to admit, this is a neat convertible)
Spending time with people I love... my brother, who dropped by from Tokyo... Paris and Paulie... among others...
Spending time with parents. Breakfast at home. World-famous daddy-made omelettes and spreads like this.
Cruising around Mylapore with the all-knowing wishfulthinker, who I almost fell in love with after his brilliant tour of Mylapore. Malli poo & Idlis at a hole-in-the-wall: happiness is cheaper than you think.
If I had to come up with 5 reasons as to why Madras rocks, this would make the list - morning walks at the Theosophical Society, right up to the beach. Hanging out with my parents' cool friends & getting free idli-vadaa breakfast being just some of the fringe benefits.
Instead of just pigging out Woodlands thaalis all the time, I decided to try some different stuff. Like this brilliant satvic/ayurvedic meal at Sanjeevanam
. I could do that. Right about now.Hanging out with old friends... Rat (lau you!!!), Ashcool, Pros, Jim, Phi, Snoop, Prax, etc...
Ok, that'll do for reminiscing.
Monday, April 24, 2006 at 02:07
Laying Over In London
Since the back-tracking has begun, let me linger ever-so-slightly on the 6 days spent in London last month. (Was my first time there, after-all).
London lives up to every grey-cold-wet stereotype that precedes it. At first it's all very quaint to turn your collar up to the cold & damp, and feel like being in a Sting black & white video for 'The Hounds of Winter' and mutter-hum 'mercury falling...' as you go along (I don't even know if it has a video, but if it does, I'll bet it's b&w). After a while, when you have ice cubes (formerly known as ears) stuck to the sides of your head, it all gets a tad bothersome. I had to remind myself towards the end of my short stay, that is world is not indeed grey. I had to force mid-day fantasies of the tropics, of blue-skies and green-leaves. Look at me go, I'm actually so good at being crabby about the weather, I think I have Londoner-potential.
The natural sequence of things would require me to now complain about London prices. But why don't I surprise you, and skip that (besides, nowhere is too expensive if you'll make-do with buttered toast or dodgy shawarmas).
Some views of/from the London Eye:
Having come straight out of a year of (highly enjoyable) confinement in Colombia, it was difficult not to hold London in awe, given it's appropriate world-city stature. The diversity really hit me. Public transportation was the most entertaining experience, looking around in child-like wonder at the plethora of ethnic variations, as people of every conceivable skin colour hopped on and off. What really blew my mind was being on a bus (for example), and hearing 6 or 7 (or more) languages around me. Now compare that to being in relatively homogenous Bogotá, where I, just like the locals, would actually turn around if I heard English being spoken (thinking, 'now, who is this foreign person'?)
Another obvious thing that goes with the world-city stature, is a level of political consciousness that is impressive, and even amusing sometimes. You can hardly walk a few blocks in Central London without having a flyer flung at you about human rights in China, or run into a bunch of protesters outside a tube station, harping about how the US should leave Iran alone, or some such thing. At Trafalgar Square, we even stumbled across what seemed like an Anti-War political rally, complete with stoned hippies and all.
All in all, London was cool. After-all, you can't not enjoy London, if you grew up playing Monopoly :). Notting Hill was appropriately cute. Hyde Park was immense and pretty (and grey-green). Soho was well fun, and Chinatown grub was well genuine. The Tate Museum of Modert Art was trippy. The Indian Food onslaught was impressive (even went to a hole-in-the-wall restaurant that Mahatma Gandhi frequented, thanks to KC). The Big Ben, etc is O.K, really. Fabric, on the other hand, was every bit magical.
The friends really made the trip worth every podgy pound spent. Krishna & Soddy are just the best mates. Also met Saki, Sac, Kokie, Srini, Amit and a whole of AIESEC alumni. The 'friendship futon' reunion was smashing – hanging out with Holly, Helen & Chris again was easily the highlight! (Love you guys). I guess some things will never change. Ain't that swell?
London lives up to every grey-cold-wet stereotype that precedes it. At first it's all very quaint to turn your collar up to the cold & damp, and feel like being in a Sting black & white video for 'The Hounds of Winter' and mutter-hum 'mercury falling...' as you go along (I don't even know if it has a video, but if it does, I'll bet it's b&w). After a while, when you have ice cubes (formerly known as ears) stuck to the sides of your head, it all gets a tad bothersome. I had to remind myself towards the end of my short stay, that is world is not indeed grey. I had to force mid-day fantasies of the tropics, of blue-skies and green-leaves. Look at me go, I'm actually so good at being crabby about the weather, I think I have Londoner-potential.
The natural sequence of things would require me to now complain about London prices. But why don't I surprise you, and skip that (besides, nowhere is too expensive if you'll make-do with buttered toast or dodgy shawarmas).
Some views of/from the London Eye:
Having come straight out of a year of (highly enjoyable) confinement in Colombia, it was difficult not to hold London in awe, given it's appropriate world-city stature. The diversity really hit me. Public transportation was the most entertaining experience, looking around in child-like wonder at the plethora of ethnic variations, as people of every conceivable skin colour hopped on and off. What really blew my mind was being on a bus (for example), and hearing 6 or 7 (or more) languages around me. Now compare that to being in relatively homogenous Bogotá, where I, just like the locals, would actually turn around if I heard English being spoken (thinking, 'now, who is this foreign person'?)
Another obvious thing that goes with the world-city stature, is a level of political consciousness that is impressive, and even amusing sometimes. You can hardly walk a few blocks in Central London without having a flyer flung at you about human rights in China, or run into a bunch of protesters outside a tube station, harping about how the US should leave Iran alone, or some such thing. At Trafalgar Square, we even stumbled across what seemed like an Anti-War political rally, complete with stoned hippies and all.
All in all, London was cool. After-all, you can't not enjoy London, if you grew up playing Monopoly :). Notting Hill was appropriately cute. Hyde Park was immense and pretty (and grey-green). Soho was well fun, and Chinatown grub was well genuine. The Tate Museum of Modert Art was trippy. The Indian Food onslaught was impressive (even went to a hole-in-the-wall restaurant that Mahatma Gandhi frequented, thanks to KC). The Big Ben, etc is O.K, really. Fabric, on the other hand, was every bit magical.
The friends really made the trip worth every podgy pound spent. Krishna & Soddy are just the best mates. Also met Saki, Sac, Kokie, Srini, Amit and a whole of AIESEC alumni. The 'friendship futon' reunion was smashing – hanging out with Holly, Helen & Chris again was easily the highlight! (Love you guys). I guess some things will never change. Ain't that swell?
Saturday, April 22, 2006 at 12:16
Incoherant Reminiscing
It's been 36 days since I left Colombia. Sometimes I feel like I never left. Because Colombia hasn't left me; the experience lives with me, and I continue to be enriched and inspired by it. It's difficult not to be moved by a country as intriguing and endearing as Colombia, with it's warm people, enchanting culture, dramatic beauty and mind-boggling biodiversity.
The memories linger on with an almost dream-like quality. I still struggle to assimilate and recapture it all, it's all so overwhelming. I try to write something, but coherance eludes me, and it comes out like it is in my head. Fleeting Images. Like flashes. Necessitating Spanish and a temporary junking of the sentence as we know it. Here goes. (Warning: Low Readability)
Colombia. Complejidad. Inquietud. Aún Tranquilidad. Alegría. Optimismo. Pasión. Locura. Belleza Increíble. Las Montañas. Las Costas. Los Llanos. El Desierto. Selva Húmeda. Lagunas, Ríos, Mares. El mundo desde la ventana de un Bolivariano. Vive Colombia, Viaja Por Ella. Maridol, alguien? Paisajes Impresionantes. Carreteras. 10 Cambios de Clima en solo un Día. Vuelos. Aterrizando. Nevados cubiertos en Nieve. 5 minutos después, el Mar Caribe. Emoción. Aventura. Paseos. Melgar. Fushi en la Piscina. Manizales. Rollercoaster Calles. Armenia. El Valle de Cocora. Caballos. Caídas. Cartagena. Leyendas. Castillos. Santa Marta. La Playa. Pueblitos Caribes. Donde te llaman 'Mi Vida' en la Calle. Parques Naturales. Paz. Picaduras. Villa De Levya. Encanto. Barichara. Romance. San Gil. Deportes. Más Caídas. Tunja. Iglesias. Casinos? Cali. Peligro: Chivas Locas que te llevan a Juanchito. Raquira. Chiquinquira. Chicha enfrente de la Iglesia. Villavicencio. Borrachera en Los Capachos. Periera. Poker por 900 en El Pavo. Medellín. Gritando en Trilogía. Hablando Paisa, Pues. Guatavita. Laguna magica. Cultura. Cortesía. Amabilidad. Cohesión. Diferencias. Idiosincrasias. Identidad. Optimismo. Educación. Política. Positivismo. Uribismo. Amarillo-Azul-Rojo. Historia. Colores. Magia. Realismo. Gabriel García Márquez. Arte. Museos. Theatro. Chismes. Quien? Que Cosa? Fútbol en el parque. Fútbol en las conversaciones. Fútbol en las noticias por (solo?) 15 minutos. Farándula, otro 15 minutos. Billares y Las Chicas Aguila. Navidad. Novenas. Ven... Ven, Ven! Risa. Más risa. Risa. Aguardiente. Vallenato. Las Chivas. Bailando. Chichones en la Cabeza. Guayabo. Refajo, pa' quitar el guayabo. Bonfiest, alguien? Películas aburridas. Películas fantásticas. Tele-novelas. Yo Soy Farina. Como no? Los Reyes. Comedía. La Pelota de Letras. Deje así! Planes. Peguele! Fines de Semanas. Entre Semana. Puentes. Viajes Por Tierra. Música de Las 80s. Postres en el Camino. Leche Asada. Otra, por favor. No me digas 'Marrana'. Rumba. Música. Salsa. Merengue. Reggaeton. Blue-Jeaneada. Crossover. Pa Las Que Sea. Conciertos. Carlos Vives, doble-conciertos. Energia. Carnavales. Ferias (en cada esquina). Sombreros, Ponchos, Botas. Antioqueño. Ron Viejo de Caldas. Limón, alguien? Las Fondas. Flores. Desfiles. Farra Loca. Más Farra Loca. La Farra Loca y HASTA Más. Andrés Carnes de Res. Hasta La Manecer. Remate (Cedritos?) 411 1111. El Salto del Angel. San Sebastian (y el baterista favorito). El Bombonera. Los Miércoles. Quiebra Canto. Invitro. Bogotá. La Otra Casa. 2700m más cerca las estrellas. No tiene mar, pero tiene ciclo-via. Si hay lluvia. Si hay llamas en el centro. Si hay trancon. La Ciudad. Descubrimiento. Calles. Carreras. Barrios. Mercados. Artesanías. Pintura en la 85. Cuentistas de la Calle. Mercados de Pulgas. Chuzos. Esquinas. Bulla. Semaforos. El Payaso. El Jugador de Manos. El parque cuando sale el sol. Caminatas en Candelaria. Comidita en La Macarena. El Circunvalar con el Tardecer. La Sabana por la Tarde un Domingo. Entre Pues? Ladrillos de color de melocotón. Orden. Desorden. Transmilenio. 'Ejecutivos'. El Negro que Canta. El Flaco que Vende Mani. Vendedores. En la Calle. En un Carrito Viejo con Panela o un balde de Mandarinas por 2 mil. Comida. Carne. Más Carne. Bandeja Paisa. Mondongo y Cazuela de Frijoles en Medallo. Ceviche de Camarones en Santa Marta. Muy delicioso. Deliciosisimo. Sancocho en la Finca. Tamal, en Monserrate. Ajiaco. Con muchas Alcaparras. Pescado, con Arroz con Coco y Patacones. Mazorca desgranada en el Chuzo Costeño (Cohteño?). Con Salsa de Piña. Chatarra. Churros. Churasco. Chorizo. Chicharron (los que se comen, y los que no se comen). Chontaduro, con Miel y Sal. Perros Calientes con 20 salsas y Papas. Salpicon. Frutas exoticas. Jugos Naturales. Lulo o Curuba? Lulo, gracias. Maracuya o Guanábana? Maracuya gracias. Fresa o Piña? La variedad sin fin. La única Ensalada de Frutas del mundo con 2000 calorías (gracias a la crema, queso y las salsas dulces). Bon Bon Boom. Nucita. Chocorama. Mantecada. Estoy gorda, &#!%#!!! Achiras. Con Tinto. Empanadas. Con Ají. Platanos. Con Queso y Bocadillo. (Otro?). Obleas, con Arequipe, Mora & Crema De Leche, mejor dicho, con *Todo*. Arepas. Con Guacamole, con Hogao, con Sal & Mantequilla, con lo que sea. Chocolate. Con Queso. Almohabanas. Pan de Yuca. Pero comete alguito! Almuerzo Corriente. Menú del día. Media sopa, por favor. Más ensalada, por favor. No papa a la francesa, papa salada, por favor. No carne, pollo por favor. Asado, no broaster, por favor. Vanidad. Silicona. Bueno, Bonito, Barato. Compre una cirugía plástica, la otra es gratis! (Ave María!) Maquillaje. Re-toque las pestañas cuando pare el taxi. No hay tiempo pa perder. Moda. Peluquerías. Me esta cogiendo la tarde. Señorita Yuca. Señorita Café. Señorita Quien Sabe Que. Pensamientos. Diparidad. Raíces. Religión. Democracía. Oportunidad. Justicía. Derechos. El Futuro. Memorias. La Primera 'MECHA!!!!!!!' La Primera Cita. La Gripa. Otra Vez. Agua Panela, Limón y Jengibre. Conexiones. Entrevistas. Indio o Hindú? Coversaciones. Miles. Sonrisas. Papas. Abuelos. Tios. Primos. Sobrinos. Vecinos. Audio-Porno Gratis. Taxistas Habladores. Empleadas habladores. Porteros habladores. Todos habladores. Todo el tiempo. Fresas Cortadas. Amor. Amistad. Personas Inolvidables. Cayita. Javi. Sandra. Enano. Las Hermanas Gates. Edo. Cosa. Ribon. Juanita. Diana y sus Micoltas. Bobby. Peña. Paito. Ivan M. Mauricio M. Taty. J-Lo. Chiqui. German. Amit. Tiago. Ozan. Eda. Alexa. Felix. Thad. King Wong. AIESECos. Mauricio, el dueño del mejor chuzo de la Castellana. Maria Ema, mi empleada querida. Orlando, el portero más bacano. Ranghy, mi peluquero gay. Marcela, mi manicurista. Juan Díaz, mi 'shoe-shine' señor. Todos los taxistas. Todos los meseros. Todos que han tocado mi vida en ese país hermoso. Todo. Yo Creo En Colombia. Punto Com. Punto Co? No tengo minutos. Pensame. Llamame. Sorpréndeme.
Pa arriba, pa abajo, pa fuera, pa dentro. Salud. Nos vemos.
The memories linger on with an almost dream-like quality. I still struggle to assimilate and recapture it all, it's all so overwhelming. I try to write something, but coherance eludes me, and it comes out like it is in my head. Fleeting Images. Like flashes. Necessitating Spanish and a temporary junking of the sentence as we know it. Here goes. (Warning: Low Readability)
Colombia. Complejidad. Inquietud. Aún Tranquilidad. Alegría. Optimismo. Pasión. Locura. Belleza Increíble. Las Montañas. Las Costas. Los Llanos. El Desierto. Selva Húmeda. Lagunas, Ríos, Mares. El mundo desde la ventana de un Bolivariano. Vive Colombia, Viaja Por Ella. Maridol, alguien? Paisajes Impresionantes. Carreteras. 10 Cambios de Clima en solo un Día. Vuelos. Aterrizando. Nevados cubiertos en Nieve. 5 minutos después, el Mar Caribe. Emoción. Aventura. Paseos. Melgar. Fushi en la Piscina. Manizales. Rollercoaster Calles. Armenia. El Valle de Cocora. Caballos. Caídas. Cartagena. Leyendas. Castillos. Santa Marta. La Playa. Pueblitos Caribes. Donde te llaman 'Mi Vida' en la Calle. Parques Naturales. Paz. Picaduras. Villa De Levya. Encanto. Barichara. Romance. San Gil. Deportes. Más Caídas. Tunja. Iglesias. Casinos? Cali. Peligro: Chivas Locas que te llevan a Juanchito. Raquira. Chiquinquira. Chicha enfrente de la Iglesia. Villavicencio. Borrachera en Los Capachos. Periera. Poker por 900 en El Pavo. Medellín. Gritando en Trilogía. Hablando Paisa, Pues. Guatavita. Laguna magica. Cultura. Cortesía. Amabilidad. Cohesión. Diferencias. Idiosincrasias. Identidad. Optimismo. Educación. Política. Positivismo. Uribismo. Amarillo-Azul-Rojo. Historia. Colores. Magia. Realismo. Gabriel García Márquez. Arte. Museos. Theatro. Chismes. Quien? Que Cosa? Fútbol en el parque. Fútbol en las conversaciones. Fútbol en las noticias por (solo?) 15 minutos. Farándula, otro 15 minutos. Billares y Las Chicas Aguila. Navidad. Novenas. Ven... Ven, Ven! Risa. Más risa. Risa. Aguardiente. Vallenato. Las Chivas. Bailando. Chichones en la Cabeza. Guayabo. Refajo, pa' quitar el guayabo. Bonfiest, alguien? Películas aburridas. Películas fantásticas. Tele-novelas. Yo Soy Farina. Como no? Los Reyes. Comedía. La Pelota de Letras. Deje así! Planes. Peguele! Fines de Semanas. Entre Semana. Puentes. Viajes Por Tierra. Música de Las 80s. Postres en el Camino. Leche Asada. Otra, por favor. No me digas 'Marrana'. Rumba. Música. Salsa. Merengue. Reggaeton. Blue-Jeaneada. Crossover. Pa Las Que Sea. Conciertos. Carlos Vives, doble-conciertos. Energia. Carnavales. Ferias (en cada esquina). Sombreros, Ponchos, Botas. Antioqueño. Ron Viejo de Caldas. Limón, alguien? Las Fondas. Flores. Desfiles. Farra Loca. Más Farra Loca. La Farra Loca y HASTA Más. Andrés Carnes de Res. Hasta La Manecer. Remate (Cedritos?) 411 1111. El Salto del Angel. San Sebastian (y el baterista favorito). El Bombonera. Los Miércoles. Quiebra Canto. Invitro. Bogotá. La Otra Casa. 2700m más cerca las estrellas. No tiene mar, pero tiene ciclo-via. Si hay lluvia. Si hay llamas en el centro. Si hay trancon. La Ciudad. Descubrimiento. Calles. Carreras. Barrios. Mercados. Artesanías. Pintura en la 85. Cuentistas de la Calle. Mercados de Pulgas. Chuzos. Esquinas. Bulla. Semaforos. El Payaso. El Jugador de Manos. El parque cuando sale el sol. Caminatas en Candelaria. Comidita en La Macarena. El Circunvalar con el Tardecer. La Sabana por la Tarde un Domingo. Entre Pues? Ladrillos de color de melocotón. Orden. Desorden. Transmilenio. 'Ejecutivos'. El Negro que Canta. El Flaco que Vende Mani. Vendedores. En la Calle. En un Carrito Viejo con Panela o un balde de Mandarinas por 2 mil. Comida. Carne. Más Carne. Bandeja Paisa. Mondongo y Cazuela de Frijoles en Medallo. Ceviche de Camarones en Santa Marta. Muy delicioso. Deliciosisimo. Sancocho en la Finca. Tamal, en Monserrate. Ajiaco. Con muchas Alcaparras. Pescado, con Arroz con Coco y Patacones. Mazorca desgranada en el Chuzo Costeño (Cohteño?). Con Salsa de Piña. Chatarra. Churros. Churasco. Chorizo. Chicharron (los que se comen, y los que no se comen). Chontaduro, con Miel y Sal. Perros Calientes con 20 salsas y Papas. Salpicon. Frutas exoticas. Jugos Naturales. Lulo o Curuba? Lulo, gracias. Maracuya o Guanábana? Maracuya gracias. Fresa o Piña? La variedad sin fin. La única Ensalada de Frutas del mundo con 2000 calorías (gracias a la crema, queso y las salsas dulces). Bon Bon Boom. Nucita. Chocorama. Mantecada. Estoy gorda, &#!%#!!! Achiras. Con Tinto. Empanadas. Con Ají. Platanos. Con Queso y Bocadillo. (Otro?). Obleas, con Arequipe, Mora & Crema De Leche, mejor dicho, con *Todo*. Arepas. Con Guacamole, con Hogao, con Sal & Mantequilla, con lo que sea. Chocolate. Con Queso. Almohabanas. Pan de Yuca. Pero comete alguito! Almuerzo Corriente. Menú del día. Media sopa, por favor. Más ensalada, por favor. No papa a la francesa, papa salada, por favor. No carne, pollo por favor. Asado, no broaster, por favor. Vanidad. Silicona. Bueno, Bonito, Barato. Compre una cirugía plástica, la otra es gratis! (Ave María!) Maquillaje. Re-toque las pestañas cuando pare el taxi. No hay tiempo pa perder. Moda. Peluquerías. Me esta cogiendo la tarde. Señorita Yuca. Señorita Café. Señorita Quien Sabe Que. Pensamientos. Diparidad. Raíces. Religión. Democracía. Oportunidad. Justicía. Derechos. El Futuro. Memorias. La Primera 'MECHA!!!!!!!' La Primera Cita. La Gripa. Otra Vez. Agua Panela, Limón y Jengibre. Conexiones. Entrevistas. Indio o Hindú? Coversaciones. Miles. Sonrisas. Papas. Abuelos. Tios. Primos. Sobrinos. Vecinos. Audio-Porno Gratis. Taxistas Habladores. Empleadas habladores. Porteros habladores. Todos habladores. Todo el tiempo. Fresas Cortadas. Amor. Amistad. Personas Inolvidables. Cayita. Javi. Sandra. Enano. Las Hermanas Gates. Edo. Cosa. Ribon. Juanita. Diana y sus Micoltas. Bobby. Peña. Paito. Ivan M. Mauricio M. Taty. J-Lo. Chiqui. German. Amit. Tiago. Ozan. Eda. Alexa. Felix. Thad. King Wong. AIESECos. Mauricio, el dueño del mejor chuzo de la Castellana. Maria Ema, mi empleada querida. Orlando, el portero más bacano. Ranghy, mi peluquero gay. Marcela, mi manicurista. Juan Díaz, mi 'shoe-shine' señor. Todos los taxistas. Todos los meseros. Todos que han tocado mi vida en ese país hermoso. Todo. Yo Creo En Colombia. Punto Com. Punto Co? No tengo minutos. Pensame. Llamame. Sorpréndeme.
Pa arriba, pa abajo, pa fuera, pa dentro. Salud. Nos vemos.
Sunday, April 16, 2006 at 00:18
They Took My Papaya
I am an idiot. Yesterday I failed myself and I failed Colombia, having made the stupidest mistake possible, putting all my Colombian training to shame:
*I gave papaya*
Si señor, soy una boba. I gave papaya.
I can see the Colombians & quasi-Colombians amongst us smiling, and I can see the rest of you looking blank. For the benefit of the clueless, I will attempt to explain the papaya concept, tricky as that might be.
It was my very first lesson in Colombia and a near sacred commandment for anyone who lives there or passes through: 'No se puede dar papaya', metaphorical for - don't let your guard down, be naive or ask for trouble. Because when you give payaya, someone's gonna take it, get it?
So what's my papaya story from yesterday? I let down my guard for 10 minutes and had my phone stolen. 10 minutes in an upmarket, well-located, sparsely inhabited home store in the middle of the afternoon. Stolen, dammit!!! And here I am thinking that doesn't happen in India! Worse still, it was my mother's phone. And this is the second time I've done this. I feel like such an idiot.
While in Colombia I was so totally jiggy with the papaya concept, I had mastered the art of being 'papaya savvy'. I would even pride myself on having given papaya on many occasion, but I always got lucky. Much to the amusement and dismay of my Colombian friends, I would leave my phone behind in restaurants, buses, offices, just about anywhere. And it always came back to me. Either I kept running into wonderful, honest human beings or my phone was so crappy & old that no one would want to take it. I think it might be a combination of both factors.
Day 4 in India, went off into la-la land for 10 minutes, and WHOOSH, phone's been whacked. India is overrated on the whole people-being-nice thing sometimes. Inhale. Exhale. Repeat.
*I gave papaya*
Si señor, soy una boba. I gave papaya.
I can see the Colombians & quasi-Colombians amongst us smiling, and I can see the rest of you looking blank. For the benefit of the clueless, I will attempt to explain the papaya concept, tricky as that might be.
It was my very first lesson in Colombia and a near sacred commandment for anyone who lives there or passes through: 'No se puede dar papaya', metaphorical for - don't let your guard down, be naive or ask for trouble. Because when you give payaya, someone's gonna take it, get it?
So what's my papaya story from yesterday? I let down my guard for 10 minutes and had my phone stolen. 10 minutes in an upmarket, well-located, sparsely inhabited home store in the middle of the afternoon. Stolen, dammit!!! And here I am thinking that doesn't happen in India! Worse still, it was my mother's phone. And this is the second time I've done this. I feel like such an idiot.
While in Colombia I was so totally jiggy with the papaya concept, I had mastered the art of being 'papaya savvy'. I would even pride myself on having given papaya on many occasion, but I always got lucky. Much to the amusement and dismay of my Colombian friends, I would leave my phone behind in restaurants, buses, offices, just about anywhere. And it always came back to me. Either I kept running into wonderful, honest human beings or my phone was so crappy & old that no one would want to take it. I think it might be a combination of both factors.
Day 4 in India, went off into la-la land for 10 minutes, and WHOOSH, phone's been whacked. India is overrated on the whole people-being-nice thing sometimes. Inhale. Exhale. Repeat.
Thursday, April 13, 2006 at 12:05
Coming back to life
(Everyone needs a kick up the arse once in a while; thanks Nida)
So I fell off the blogosphere for a (considerable) bit. I could blame it on my suck-the-juice-out-of-life, action-packed, continent-hopping, whirlwind lifestyle. But I'll be honest. I've been lazy, I've been procrastinating and if I was to be really honest, I've struggled a bit myself to keep up with what's been going on in my world, and thus broadcasting to unknown audiences had begun to seem a tad daunting.
But life goes on, and so shall this blog.
I did indeed leave Colombia on March 16. 28 days, 7 flights and much adventure has transpired since, and now I find myself on home turf again. Back in India after 14 months. 14 spectacular months of madness and magic, 12 of which were spent in Colombia, a country I fell passionately in love with, to say the least (and you haven't heard the last of it yet). There is awareness of an intense personal growth that I cannot help but feel infinitely blessed for. I'm still largely overwhelmed, so don't expect much coherence over the words (or days) that follow. Now that things have finally slowed down (well, relatively, at least), some reflection and assimilation is in order, and it will come, in it's own way, in it's own time.
Of course, as much time/space as India will allow me, when she's not assaulting my senses, taking me on a rollercoaster ride or just throwing me in a tizzy. Did I say how much I love being back? :)
India's being good to me, and reintegration has been much smoother than I expected, and definitely much smoother than after my year in Hong Kong. I feel completely at home and at peace with everything, and look ahead in a strange, eager, fascinated kind of way. Surely this must be a sign of nomadic nirvana. Famous last words?
Stay tuned.
So I fell off the blogosphere for a (considerable) bit. I could blame it on my suck-the-juice-out-of-life, action-packed, continent-hopping, whirlwind lifestyle. But I'll be honest. I've been lazy, I've been procrastinating and if I was to be really honest, I've struggled a bit myself to keep up with what's been going on in my world, and thus broadcasting to unknown audiences had begun to seem a tad daunting.
But life goes on, and so shall this blog.
I did indeed leave Colombia on March 16. 28 days, 7 flights and much adventure has transpired since, and now I find myself on home turf again. Back in India after 14 months. 14 spectacular months of madness and magic, 12 of which were spent in Colombia, a country I fell passionately in love with, to say the least (and you haven't heard the last of it yet). There is awareness of an intense personal growth that I cannot help but feel infinitely blessed for. I'm still largely overwhelmed, so don't expect much coherence over the words (or days) that follow. Now that things have finally slowed down (well, relatively, at least), some reflection and assimilation is in order, and it will come, in it's own way, in it's own time.
Of course, as much time/space as India will allow me, when she's not assaulting my senses, taking me on a rollercoaster ride or just throwing me in a tizzy. Did I say how much I love being back? :)
India's being good to me, and reintegration has been much smoother than I expected, and definitely much smoother than after my year in Hong Kong. I feel completely at home and at peace with everything, and look ahead in a strange, eager, fascinated kind of way. Surely this must be a sign of nomadic nirvana. Famous last words?
Stay tuned.
Friday, March 03, 2006 at 18:11
Leaving
I don't think I've ever been so sad to leave anywhere as I will be on March 16 when I leave Colombia.
But let's not dwell on that right now. Especially since I have a party (brazilian carnival theme) to be at. Taxi's waiting and I'm ready to go.
But let's not dwell on that right now. Especially since I have a party (brazilian carnival theme) to be at. Taxi's waiting and I'm ready to go.
Monday, February 27, 2006 at 13:44
Tuk Tuk Colombiano
It took me 11 months to discover one of these 'cycle rickshaw' thingys in Colombia. Down in San Andresito, which like Enano rightly points out, could be Lajpat Nagar market in Delhi. I would say Lajpat Nagar Market meets Mong Kok. Cheap shopping heaven. Bought only 11 pirated movies - Colombian, Mexican, Chilean, Cuban, Brazilian. I know, I'm terrible. (Wishful T, say goodbye to boredom come April)
Thursday, February 16, 2006 at 17:48
In The Post
Why is this latest package so so cool?1. It came from far, far away (the little Hong Kong stamps nearly made me cry)
2. It's a fantastic book about how to learn a language, any language. I would recommend it highly. (Or ask Paulie, the original guinea pig)
3. It was sent to me by Chris Lonsdale, author of the book. It's cool enough getting a signed copy of a book in the post from the author, but here's why I'm really excited. I was featured in the Acknowledgments page, just how cool is that (ok, cheap thrills, I know).
Ok, closing thoughts. Learning Spanish has been an incredibly fun and powerful experience. Seeing the world in a different way and the absolute high of being able to connect with people and relate to a new culture. Makes me want to do this again and again.
2006 Language Goals: Keep working on the Español. Improve Tamil & Urdu. And learn Mandarin.
Lofty maybe, but it's such a fun thought!
Monday, February 13, 2006 at 18:18
Strawberry Fields.
It's confirmed.
UK Visa, tick.
Ticket Bogota - Madrid - London, tick. (on appropriately dodgey airline)
London, March 17-22
Krish, Soddy, Helen, Holly, Kokie, Sac, Srini, Diogo, Vinayak and all the London homies and anyone who wants to swing past and hook up, look forward to it.
UK Visa, tick.
Ticket Bogota - Madrid - London, tick. (on appropriately dodgey airline)
London, March 17-22
Krish, Soddy, Helen, Holly, Kokie, Sac, Srini, Diogo, Vinayak and all the London homies and anyone who wants to swing past and hook up, look forward to it.
Thursday, February 09, 2006 at 08:19
Best Of: Clubs
After 10 months y pico in Colombia (and slowly headed towards the end of my stay, but let's not linger on that any more than necessary), I think it's time to start the 'Best Of' series ; ) ... the Naazita hottest of the hottest picks.. of course, understandably biased by personal memories, but who isn't?
# 2 Los Capachos, Villavicencio
One of my best party nights in Colombia (with not a drop of alcohol consumed, might I add) was at this club - it's certifiably fun. Starting with the lounge, moving on to the rumba loca on the huge dancefloor, and then a 3am diversion at the next zone, with typical 'llanera' music and steaming hot cilantro bathed sancocho served at 4am.
# 1 Andres Carnes de Res, Chia (like there was any doubt.)
This club is just magic. They've got every element to a great rumba going. Fantastic ambience & decor, fantastic food & drink, fantastic music, fantastic people... they even win the Naazita award for coolest waiters... here are just a few from my extensive collection of photos with waiters ; )
Ok, any other Colombia veterans reading this, feel free to have your go at the Best Clubs list...
# 3 Cafe del Mar, Cartagena
Best place to watch the sun go down on the caribbean, take in some great lounge music and cool breeze while sprawled on a luxurious futon. The location, at the heart of the stone fortress overlooking the sea, couldn't possibly be more magical.
# 2 Los Capachos, Villavicencio
One of my best party nights in Colombia (with not a drop of alcohol consumed, might I add) was at this club - it's certifiably fun. Starting with the lounge, moving on to the rumba loca on the huge dancefloor, and then a 3am diversion at the next zone, with typical 'llanera' music and steaming hot cilantro bathed sancocho served at 4am.
# 1 Andres Carnes de Res, Chia (like there was any doubt.)
This club is just magic. They've got every element to a great rumba going. Fantastic ambience & decor, fantastic food & drink, fantastic music, fantastic people... they even win the Naazita award for coolest waiters... here are just a few from my extensive collection of photos with waiters ; )
Ok, any other Colombia veterans reading this, feel free to have your go at the Best Clubs list...
Friday, February 03, 2006 at 08:47
Thus spoke the competant one
My brother is lovable is his old, wise and geeky ways.
I sent a message to Fuzz, saying 'why does this remind me of our relationship'.
(tech imbecile that I am)
Says Fuzz:
"haha...
Well if the competent were competent enough, the incompetent would not need ask their help in setting up wireless LANs, home theater systems, and whatever else the competent build"
I sent a message to Fuzz, saying 'why does this remind me of our relationship'.
(tech imbecile that I am)
Says Fuzz:
"haha...
Well if the competent were competent enough, the incompetent would not need ask their help in setting up wireless LANs, home theater systems, and whatever else the competent build"
Wednesday, January 25, 2006 at 18:54
Medallo
I finally checked out Medellin, Colombia's third largest city after Bogota and Cali. I can't remember the last time I arrived somewhere new with about a hundred preconceptions. Ever since I got to Colombia, I've heard a lot about Medellin. How the women are the hottest (a significant number aided by silicon). How the weather is perfect. How the people are friendly, even if they think they're a cut above the rest. How they talk (sing?). How they eat frijoles everyday. Etc Etc Etc. So finally I checked out the city for myself, and found a number of reasons why Medellin is a great city. Some of them:
- Because it's beau-ooo-tiful. (And I'm not just talking about the women).
- Cool concept parks. Like this one - 'El Parque de los Pies Descalzos'. In downtown Medellin, skyscrapers in sight, a neat little park which is all about the joyful abandon of bare feet. Almost like a miniature water park cum beach in the centre of the city. Ah, the joy of things that don't cost a penny.
Great nightlife. Parque Lleras if you're into silicon spotting. I would recommend the happy hour 3 x 'Beso de Tigre' for 11.900 pesos at 'Thaico'. Now that's a cool deal. Or Trilogia for great live music.
- They have really funny store names. Like this one. 'Maridos en Alquiler' or 'Husbands for Rent'. Blown fuse? Leaking tap? Just call.
It would be a sin to talk about Medellin and not talk about the food. The paisas (folks from Medellin), boy can they eat! The paisas reading this will be well proud of me... I tucked into Mondongo at 'Mondongo's' (pic below, it's cows stomach, but you're probably better off not knowing, huh?)... arepas at 'Arepas J & C'... cazuela de frijoles (yummmm) at 'Ajiacos & Mondongos Exquisitos'... when I also learnt what 'Suchi' means in Medellin... ok, that's my laugh for the paisas... if the rest of you have no idea what I'm talking about... nevermind! (I skipped the Bandeja Paisa...I'm afraid I might die if I eat a whole one...)
- The Metro, the Paisa Pride. Colombia's only metro, and I swear it's the cleanest metro I've ever seen. Singapore has competition.
- Oooh, and Metro Cable... extension of the Metro... that goes up, up, up in one of the hilly poor communes of Medellin... fantastic social investment for the city...
- Weather so perfect you can sun-bathe on a zebra crossing in downtown Medellin ; )
- Fantastic company. Thanks Paito, eres genial... la quiero mucho ; )
Also cool was the catch up with Gabo, Indian homie in Medellin, very very cool. Gabo, waiting for the blog updates : )
Back in Bogota pues... with a Paisa accent... hahahaha
- Because it's beau-ooo-tiful. (And I'm not just talking about the women).
- Cool concept parks. Like this one - 'El Parque de los Pies Descalzos'. In downtown Medellin, skyscrapers in sight, a neat little park which is all about the joyful abandon of bare feet. Almost like a miniature water park cum beach in the centre of the city. Ah, the joy of things that don't cost a penny.
Great nightlife. Parque Lleras if you're into silicon spotting. I would recommend the happy hour 3 x 'Beso de Tigre' for 11.900 pesos at 'Thaico'. Now that's a cool deal. Or Trilogia for great live music.
- They have really funny store names. Like this one. 'Maridos en Alquiler' or 'Husbands for Rent'. Blown fuse? Leaking tap? Just call.
It would be a sin to talk about Medellin and not talk about the food. The paisas (folks from Medellin), boy can they eat! The paisas reading this will be well proud of me... I tucked into Mondongo at 'Mondongo's' (pic below, it's cows stomach, but you're probably better off not knowing, huh?)... arepas at 'Arepas J & C'... cazuela de frijoles (yummmm) at 'Ajiacos & Mondongos Exquisitos'... when I also learnt what 'Suchi' means in Medellin... ok, that's my laugh for the paisas... if the rest of you have no idea what I'm talking about... nevermind! (I skipped the Bandeja Paisa...I'm afraid I might die if I eat a whole one...)
- The Metro, the Paisa Pride. Colombia's only metro, and I swear it's the cleanest metro I've ever seen. Singapore has competition.
- Oooh, and Metro Cable... extension of the Metro... that goes up, up, up in one of the hilly poor communes of Medellin... fantastic social investment for the city...
- Weather so perfect you can sun-bathe on a zebra crossing in downtown Medellin ; )
- Fantastic company. Thanks Paito, eres genial... la quiero mucho ; )
Also cool was the catch up with Gabo, Indian homie in Medellin, very very cool. Gabo, waiting for the blog updates : )
Back in Bogota pues... with a Paisa accent... hahahaha
Saturday, January 14, 2006 at 18:08
Look Who's...
...been rappeling (Parque Los Yarumos, Manizales).
This is the scary bit, the first step. Going from 0 to 90 degrees south. It's a good thing you can't see the look of terror on my face.
Getting there. Long legs help.
Wet, cold, muddy but lovin it. Oooh, almost home.
This was the first waterfall we went down. The second one was double in length, double fun and not half as scary as the first time.
Can't wait to do this again.
This is the scary bit, the first step. Going from 0 to 90 degrees south. It's a good thing you can't see the look of terror on my face.
Getting there. Long legs help.
Wet, cold, muddy but lovin it. Oooh, almost home.
This was the first waterfall we went down. The second one was double in length, double fun and not half as scary as the first time.
Can't wait to do this again.
Sunday, January 01, 2006 at 22:25
New Years
Until this year, New Years Eve was just another excuse for a party with friends. I always imagined it was fairly similar everywhere, at least any cosmopolitan city (and I'd put Bogota in the cosmopolitan city category). But Colombia had me surprised. It turns out that New Years Eve is not the biggest party night of year, like it is in many parts of the world. Hey, it isn't even a party night to begin with. New Years Eve in Colombia is a family night, probably moreso than Christmas Eve. It's an evening of getting together with the family, reflecting on the year gone by, and sharing wishes and propositions for the new year. And then there are agueros.
Agueros are like little superstitions, things that people do to bring good fortune in the new year. There are a whole lot of agueros based on the New Year, and just after the family brings in the new year at midnight, people set about doing these agueros in a frantic rush. Here are some of the popular ones (maybe the Colombians can help add to the list)
- eat 12 grapes just in one minute, just after it hits midnight - make a wish with each grape (for good luck, 12 grapes for 12 months)
- throw rice around the house (for prosperity/abundance in the new year)
- run around the block with a suitcase/travel bag in hand (for travel)
- bathe jewelry in champagne (some people say bathe yourself in champagne too)
- wear yellow underwear (hahahahahaha)
There are lots more, some really bizarre ones. But the point is, here I was looking for a party on New Years Eve, but struggling to find anything, since just about everyone is at home with their families, chatting and aguero-ing away. I called about 15 clubs, some of Bogotá's biggest. Almost all of them were CLOSED. Imagine that. Culture shock. No rumba on New Years Eve. At least not in Bogota - Cartagena is where all the big parties happen (as we speak - Tiesto, PVD, Robby Rivera, etc... ). We finally managed to find a respectable party at Babar... which only began at 1am...
There are some cool photos from my new years eve, but my camera has accidently found its way to Rotterdam, thanks to this chica... : ) Something will have to be done to retreive my coolpix baby...
Oooh, and Happy New Year.
Agueros are like little superstitions, things that people do to bring good fortune in the new year. There are a whole lot of agueros based on the New Year, and just after the family brings in the new year at midnight, people set about doing these agueros in a frantic rush. Here are some of the popular ones (maybe the Colombians can help add to the list)
- eat 12 grapes just in one minute, just after it hits midnight - make a wish with each grape (for good luck, 12 grapes for 12 months)
- throw rice around the house (for prosperity/abundance in the new year)
- run around the block with a suitcase/travel bag in hand (for travel)
- bathe jewelry in champagne (some people say bathe yourself in champagne too)
- wear yellow underwear (hahahahahaha)
There are lots more, some really bizarre ones. But the point is, here I was looking for a party on New Years Eve, but struggling to find anything, since just about everyone is at home with their families, chatting and aguero-ing away. I called about 15 clubs, some of Bogotá's biggest. Almost all of them were CLOSED. Imagine that. Culture shock. No rumba on New Years Eve. At least not in Bogota - Cartagena is where all the big parties happen (as we speak - Tiesto, PVD, Robby Rivera, etc... ). We finally managed to find a respectable party at Babar... which only began at 1am...
There are some cool photos from my new years eve, but my camera has accidently found its way to Rotterdam, thanks to this chica... : ) Something will have to be done to retreive my coolpix baby...
Oooh, and Happy New Year.
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